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''We live not as we want but the best way we can''

King's Sutton is a pretty town,
And lies all in a Valley.
There is a pretty ring of bells,
Besides a bowling alley.
Wine and liquor in good store,
Pretty maidens plenty.
Can a man desire more?
There ain't such a town in twenty!
Published by Halliwell in 1760

The following is a brief history and overview of the village of
King's Sutton with links, where appropriate , to other websites which expand on the details given here. It may be of assistance to refer to the 'Chronology' site in order to put our own village history into perspective.

This version is not intended to be an exhaustive history, as this task is already under way as a full project sponsored by the King's Sutton Heritage Trust. When that fuller version is available it will be published on this or one of our subsidiary websites.

King's Sutton

The name is given a ''Svdtone'' in the Domesday book of 1086 when most of the village was recorded as belonging to  the King. It is , however another 200 years before the 'Royal' connection appears, with the names 'Suttun Regis' in 1252 and 'Kinges Sutton' in 1294.

Archeology

The earliest indications of settlements in the area, however, were recorded by Northamptonshire historians, Bridges (1791) and Baker (1822-30) Both write of the discovery of numerous Roman coins and a number of skeletons, particularly just to the north of Twyford Barn Farm where there was a Roman settlement.

( In the past few years Moons garage, in Wales Street, was demolished to make way for new houses and an archaeological rescue dig was carried out on the site. The 'Dig' revealed a Middle Iron Age settlement, enclosure ditches, a drove way and two circular buildings. There were also pits, post holes and what was either a kiln or a hearth. Pottery fragments and some animal bones were also found and some evidence of iron smelting. However the sites occupation went back much earlier as worked flints were also found that date back to the early Neolithic or Mesolithic times!)

St Rumbold

The Saxon legend of
St. Rumbold has been retold many times and it is difficult to separate fact from fiction, however in 1963 the historian Sir George Clark wrote,

''There are four medieval manuscripts of a certain collection of many lives of the saints among which this life is found in its earliest form. The oldest of these four manuscripts was written out in the eleventh century,....and so nothing is known of St Rumbold's life except what is found in the anonymous eleventh-century manuscript.'' 

A version of St Rumbold's Life, by Alfred Storey in Historical Legends of Northamptonshire (1883), gave a simple and not over embellished account.

''According to the old monkish legends, the infant St Rumbold or Rumboalde, as it is sometimes written, was the son of a daughter of Penda, King of the Mercians and was born at King's Sutton on the 1st of November 662. The father, Rumbald, King of Northumberland was a Pagan but was converted by the prayers of his wife before the marriage was consummated. Soon after the infant's birth the child spoke holy words and, after having professed himself a Christian, was baptized. The baptism was carried out by Bishop Widerino, assisted by Eadwold, a priest, in water contained in a hollow stone lying in a field. Rumbald lived only three days. He was buried at Sutton by Eadwold but was transferred the following year to Brackley and the third year after his birth to Buckingham. Here a shrine was erected for him in the church.''

John Leyland, writing of his visit to King's Sutton in about 1537, said, 

''St. Rumoalde was borne in this Paroch. There was of late a Chappell dedicated to him standing about a mile from Sutton in the Medes (meadows), defaced and taken down.''

St Rumbold's font was removed from the
King's Sutton Church in victorian times and is now apparently lost. It has been claimed that a stone, found in the churchyard and incorporated in the present font, is the original.

The Domesday Book

At the time of the
Domesday Book (1086) the Shires were sub-divided into Hundreds. King's Sutton Hundred was bounded in the East by the Cherwell and included Grimsbury and Middleton Cheney to the North and Ayhno and Croughton to the South. The landowners were listed together with the available income and within the village itself King William owned three hides, estimated at about 360 acres and other smaller areas. Among the very few markets mentioned in the Domesday Book was the one at 'Svdtone' worth 20 shillings a year to the King.

The Manor

The history of the Manor is documented in considerable detail by both Bridges and Baker. At the time of the Domesday Survey and up to the reign of Henry II it belonged to the Crown. In 1156 Henry granted the Lordship to Richard Camvill and the Sheriff of the County, Simon FitzPeter, was paid 30 pounds in blank uncoined silver on behalf of the King.

The Manor passed to Richard's son Gerard and to his son Richard. In 1215, during the reign of King John, Richard Camvill was dispossessed in favour of Ingelram de Cigon but in the following year, the first in the reign of Henry III, it was returned to him.   His only surviving child, a daughter Idonea, married William Longspe, Earl of Salisbury and in 1226 he was granted the Manor.  

In 1240 it passed from William to his brother Stephen and then to Emmeline, his daughter. She died in 1331 and the Manor was inherited by her great niece Matilda, wife of Robert de Holland. During the 14th century the Manor passed to Matilda's son, Robert de Holland and, after his death in 1373, to his grand-daughter, Matilda aged 17, wife of Lord John Lovell.

In the 15th century it continued through the Lovell family but in 1485 it again reverted to the King, Henry VII. The names Holland and Lovell are both associated with the village in later years.

In 1488 King Henry granted the Manor to George, the son and heir of Thomas, 1st Earl of Derby. Over the following hundred years it passed through the Derby family until in 1597, during the reign of Queen Elizabeth, it was sold by William, 6th Earl of Derby to James and Robert Kenwrick. James had been the 5th Earl of Derby's baliff for the Hundred of King's Sutton. A year later in 1598 James Kenwrick renounced his share to his nephew Robert and retired to the family home in Eccleston, Lancashire.
The Manor then continued through Robert Kenwrick's descendants until 1735.

The Civil War

During the
Civil War the Kenwricks were supporters of the Royalist cause and it is rumoured that King Charles was concealed in the Manor House by Richard Kenwrick. Banbury was initially Parliamentarian but fell to the Royalists in October 1642 following their victory in the first battle of the war at Edge Hill.

The town remained an outpost for the Royalists, based at Oxford, for over three years. Their troops at King's Sutton defended the river crossings at Twyford and Nell Bridge from Roundheads attacking from the East.

In 1645 the Roundheads were commanded by Sir Samuel Luke and in his Letter Book he recorded information from spies regarding troop movements in the area,

"Feb. 11th. Bennett Burroughs came this day from Ano and saith that all the horse that were quartered there and at King's Sutton went away yesterday over the river towards Blox'm whyther or when they returne hee knowes not. "
 
"Feb. 18th to 21st. At King's Sutton there lye about 50 Dutch men of the King souldiers com'anded by Lord Compton's Major and they dig Salt peeter they ly in Mr Kenricke's house and their horses in thl'kitchin some of the rescells are at Astrup."
 
Astrop Spa
 
After the Civil War the discovery of a medicinal spring at Astrop heralded the start of an era of prosperity for the village. Baker, in his history of the county, described the rise and fall of the fortunes of our local spa,

"In April 1664 Dr. Richard Lower an eminent physician travelling with Dr. Willis to visit patients discovered a medicinal spring at Eastthorp, commonly called Astrop, near King's Sutton. His companion was as usual either asleep or sleepy on his horse so he told him about it later. On their return they carried out some experiments on the water and, having satisfied themselves as to its efficacy, recommended it in their practice. "

Anthony A Wood paid a visit to the  well in 1694 and recorded in his diary,

"Soon after, the water was enclosed in a well and upon the said commendations 'twas yearly, as to this time it is frequented by all sorts of people.   July 10th.  
''I went to Astrop Wells; took up my lodgings at Wm. Upton's at King's Sutton near thereunto; and continued there til the 15th of August. I2s. for my carriage backwards and forwards, and 5 pounds for my being there; 4s. 6d. I gave for my lodgings per week.''

Another traveller, Aubrey, gave a different version of the discovery and attributed it solely to Dr. Willis,

"About 1657, riding towards Brackley to a patient, his way led him through Astrop, where he observed the stones in the little rill were discoloured of a kind of Crocus Martis colour; thought he, this may be an indication of iron; he gets galls, and puts some of the powder into the water; and immediately it turned blackish; then said he, "Ile not send my patients now so far as Tunbridge," and so in a short time brought these waters into vogue, and hath enriched a poor obscure village."

Celia Fiennes, travelling from Broughton in about 1690, wrote,

"I went to Astrop where is a Steele water much frequented by the Gentry, there is a fine Gravell Walke that is between two high cutt hedges where is a Roome for the Musick and a Roome for the Company besides the Private walkes''


Thomas Short, writing in 1740, suggested it was a cure for most ills, 

"I found it a certain cure in all female Obstructions, and singularly good in the first, and beginning of the second stage of consumptions; seldom fail in the Jandice, or begining Dropsies, effectually restore a Constitution Shattered by hard Drinking, they are Soverign in Rheumatic pains Stone and Gravel; and have restored several who have been melancholly or maniac.''

Dr. Ratcliffe, the famous physician from Oxford, was said to have patronised Astrop very warmly. In 1749 a new well was opened at King's Sutton with great solemnity at which a breakfast was given by Anthony Keek of Leicestershire in gratitude for the benefit he had received. (This is the Bog Spring which can still be found in the meadow close by the railway station.)

While Astrop was at the height of its fame there was a public ball every Monday, cards, dancing and a variety of social events. Its popularity declined rapidly at the start of the 19th century and was soon overtaken by more fashionable rivals.

                           "Where were ye cacklers of the Wells,
                            Ye brilliant beaus and lovely belles?
                            Astrop, once esteemed so clever,
                            Now sinks for ever andf or ever."

The original well in Astrop Park is now in very poor condition. A replica was built on the Charlton road following the purchase of the estate by Sir William Brown in 1865 and the closure of the public road through the park to Newbottle.

It is of interest that none of the early writers link the name St. Rumbold with the Well. This appears to be no more than a convenient association with the legend adopted in later years.

The Great Fire

Major disasters often feature in the history of any village and King's Sutton is no exception. On July 13th, 1785 a fire started at a Mr Collingbridge's.  A washer woman was making a fire and carelessly left it unattended while she was fetching in more fuel. It was dry weather and very quickly the house and 44 others were burnt down.

The damage was valued at nearly three thousand pounds and, as only a few properties were insured, a public appeal was launched which raised sufficient money to cover over half of the losses. Most of the houses in the older parts of the village were destroyed particularly in the areas around Whittall Street, Astrop Road and the Square.

The name Whittall Street is fairly recent and is so named because George Whittals lived there. He lost property to the value of 168 pounds and goods valued at 25 pounds. Carved stones, dating the fire, can still be found on various buildings including Coupe's Stores, Holland House in Astrop Road and above the front door of the White Horse public house in the Square.

The villagers recognised the benefits of fire insurance and insurance company plaques can still be seen fixed to the walls of older cottages and houses.


The Enclosure Act of 1804

Agricultural practices were changing. The mediaeval system of cultivating the land in strips and grazing animals on common land was becoming inefficient and gradually the land was enclosed into fields. Astrop was enclosed late in the 18th century and many fields in this area still show clear signs of the individual strips being cultivated into a ridge and furrow pattern.
An Act of Parliament in 1804 paved the way for the enclosure of the remainder of King's Sutton in the following year. Independent Commissioners were appointed to arrange the fair redistribution of land and they produced the Enclosure Award and a Plan Enclosure Map of 1805. dated 1805.

The major beneficiaries were,
 
William Shippen Willes, Lord of the Manor, 660 acres,
John Deacle, Vicar, 21 acres,
Edward Jenkinson, 112 acres,
John Lockton, 59 acres,
William Ralph Cartwright, 16 acres,
George and William Lovell, 146 acres.

After deducting an additional 28 acres for roads, stone pits and church land, this left only 228 acres for the remaining 32 landowners and 52 owners of cottages and gardens.


In 1735 the Manor was sold by Robert Kenwrick to the Attorney General, Sir John Willes, who purchased land at Astrop and built Astrop House. It passed to his son, John and then to his son, John Freke Willes. When he died in 1802 it passed to his cousin, William Shippen Willes, who is mentioned above as the major landowner in the parish at the time of the Enclosure Award.     On his death in 1822 the Manor passed briefly to his son, John Williams Willes, who died in 1826 and was succeeded by his younger brother William. In his history, compiled in the 1820s, Baker records the Manor House as being deserted since the time of the Kenwricks.
Following the death of William Willes in 1865 his son, John William Shippen Willes, sold Astrop House and the estate to Sir William Richmond Brown. William Willes' widow, Sophia, lived at the Manor House as Lady of the Manor until she died in 1896. The Manor House was then sold to Lewis Selby-Bigge Esq.

Improving Communications

The 19th century witnessed the dawn of major changes in communications and education. James Brindley's
Oxford Canal, started in 1769, was planned as a link between the Thames at Oxford, through Banbury, to the canal and river networks of the Midlands.

The section from Banbury to Oxford was finally completed in 1790. Though it passes to the West of the parish through Oxfordshire, it was significant in improving the carriage of freight to the village. The Great Western Railway had completed its line between Oxford and Banbury in 1850 and later this was extended to Birmingham.  

However the station at King's Sutton was not opened until 1872, possibly in anticipation of the opening of the Banbury to Cheltenham line, proposals for which were completed by 1873. This line, the track bed of which can still be traced branching off to the West just South of the present station, was finally opened in 1887.

A short link allowing trains from the South direct access was planned but never constructed. It was closed to passengers in 1951 and finally to goods in the 1960s leaving only the main line to Oxford with the branch through Bicester providing an alternative route to London.


The Willes Family of Astrop
 
The Willes family originated in Warwickshire.  Sir John Willes who was born in 1685 bought the Manor of King's Sutton from George Kenwick in 1735 and added land at Astrop and there built Astrop House. After a period of changing political parties he became Lord Chief Justice, and in 1733 Attorney General. The house passed to his son John and then to his grandson, John Joseph Freke Willes, who died without heir. He bequeathed the estate to his cousin, William Shippen Willes, Vicar Of Cirencester. The vicar's third son, William succeeded to the estate in 1826 and married Sophia Cartwright thus strengthening the ties between the King's Sutton and Aynho estates. 

John William Shippen Willes, eldest son of William and Sophia sold the Astrop estate in July 1865 to Sir William Richmond Brown of Brown's Shipbuilding.   Apart from the church almost all of the older part of the village, which dates back only 500 years, is built in the vernacular style -simple.  Sir William added a second storey to the wings of Astrop house, although utilitarian and almost utterly dependent upon locally available materials. These have since been demolished.
During his tenure a hard-topped road was laid to Charlton. The original road became a footpath and the road to Middleton Cheney was diverted from immediately in front of the house.  St. Rumbolds well is still in the Park but a replica incorporating a 17th century stone seat was built at the side of the new road to Charlton.  This seat, illustrations can show came from the origiinal Spa. 

Sir william died in 1906 and Lady Brown in 1928. In October 1929 the estate was sold and the tenants had the chance to purchase their holdings. Bert Stockford, the shoe-mender ws one who was able to buy his cottage at the bottom of Richmond street next to Home Farm.  Thus the estate was split up and Capt. Gerald Guinness bought Astrop Park House and some of his farmland.  After the second war the estate passed to Earl Beatty, son of Admiral Beatty then to Mr Farrago and in the 1970's to Mr and Mrs John Ewart.


Buildings
 
Apart from the church almost all of the older part of the village, which dates back only 500 years, is built in the vernacular style - simple and utilitarian and almost utterly dependent on locally available materials.  This can be traced back to the Saxons who built windowless, rectangular, long houses entirely of timber roofed with thatch.  Many of the older cottages are in essence a development of the central passage two room plan. Thus, through the layout of the village and the localstyle of building, we may trace its roots back to the time of our Saxon forebears.
The period 1340-1400 saw a gradual break-up of the feudal manor, for the Black Death of 1348-49 decimated the population. Where previously the open field system was common, increasing numbers of strips were held by a single farmer thus making way for a new class, the yeoman farmer. 
The Poll Tax riots of 1381 helped to bring about the end of serfdom. This period saw great changes in agriculture and continued rise in the status of the yeoman farmer and resulted in the construction of permanent dwellings of substance.
Following The Civil War 1642-1646 there was a period of rebuilding which coincided with the restoration of the monarchy. This was accompanied by a general shortage of timber and by the end of the 17th century this shortage had become acute. It was during the years 1660, 1790 that most of the older dwellings in King's Sutton and Astrop were constructed. These circumstances led the builders to look to local stone as the universal building material.
The majority of buildings in the village have been altered greatly over the years to the extent that it is rare to be able to date any building with certainty. The majority of yeoman dwellings conformed to a fairly standard basic plan consisting of two rooms on the ground floor, often with a through passage in the centre. An alternative plan arrangement was formed by putting an ingle fireplace in the centre together with the stairs built around a single newal post.
The upper floors were simply arranged with each chamber separated from the next by  timber framed lath and plaster partitions. It was usual to pass from one bedchamber to another through a door opening near the the center, for the low eaves made a side corridor plan impossible.

The changing pattern of the village during the period of canal and railway building can be appreciated by comparison of the maps of the central area at the time of the Enclosure Act of 1805 and the 1892 Ornance Survey.

In King's Sutton the first council houses were built at Astrop Gardens in 1923. These were followed by Richmond Street in 1936 and Newlands in1939.  After the 1939-45 war, King's Sutton faced the same acute shortage of housing that was widespread. It was not until 1950 that positive progress was made with new houses and it was in this period that Orchard Way was built linking the top of Richmond street and Upper Astrop road.  This was foillowed by the brick faced houses at the Willows and later by a second contract at Orchard Way. A third contract incorporated the developement on the west and northwest of the road to link up with Dairy Ground.




( The information provided is drawn from the book of King's Sutton ....with kind permission of the Parish Council and also from various copies of The King's Sutton Times.)

MORE TO FOLLOW.......as time permits